Monday, 26 October 2009

Autmn afternoons

The fine autumn in Snowdonia rolls on... Having recovered (just about) from a vicious bout of man flu I found enough energy to make the 5 minute drive to the Dinorwig slate quarries. Being by myself I decided I would practice a route on a fixed rope and self belay using a gri-gri. I Had a good play on and worked out all the move on True Clip - a brutal 7b+. Like most hard slate routes it involves pulling, standing and rocking onto tiny holds - think crimping on the edge of a pound coin! It is amazing what can can be used when you remember that you are climbing a slab, albeit a steep one, and you have a little faith! There is something very satisfying in looking at a series of tiny holds and then piecing the puzzle together bit by bit till you find the right sequence of moves.

Wednesday, 14 October 2009

Obsession... and autumn projects

Climbing is addictive and obsessive - I'm going through a spell of being fully pysched about getting stronger and fitter. The main reason for this is that I've been trying some hard sport routes - something I have never really done before. Sure I have sport climbed before - but I have tried things that I have had a good chance of getting first go. I been down to the Diamond on the Little Orme (THE place to go at the moment) to try Boat People - an uber classic 7c and into the Dinorwig slate quarries for The Dark Half 7c+/8a. Both routes are really at the limit of my climbing abilities at the moment so some serious training and mental pysche is required. I have even been visualising moves lying in bed at night! I have also been falling repeatedly of the final moves of the Full Roadside Traverse at the Cromlech - a bit of a long standing mission and at v9 or 8a+ sport grade will be a big tick for me!