Monday, 26 October 2009
The fine autumn in Snowdonia rolls on... Having recovered (just about) from a vicious bout of man flu I found enough energy to make the 5 minute drive to the Dinorwig slate quarries. Being by myself I decided I would practice a route on a fixed rope and self belay using a gri-gri. I Had a good play on and worked out all the move on True Clip - a brutal 7b+. Like most hard slate routes it involves pulling, standing and rocking onto tiny holds - think crimping on the edge of a pound coin! It is amazing what can can be used when you remember that you are climbing a slab, albeit a steep one, and you have a little faith! There is something very satisfying in looking at a series of tiny holds and then piecing the puzzle together bit by bit till you find the right sequence of moves.
Wednesday, 14 October 2009
Climbing is addictive and obsessive - I'm going through a spell of being fully pysched about getting stronger and fitter. The main reason for this is that I've been trying some hard sport routes - something I have never really done before. Sure I have sport climbed before - but I have tried things that I have had a good chance of getting first go. I been down to the Diamond on the Little Orme (THE place to go at the moment) to try Boat People - an uber classic 7c and into the Dinorwig slate quarries for The Dark Half 7c+/8a. Both routes are really at the limit of my climbing abilities at the moment so some serious training and mental pysche is required. I have even been visualising moves lying in bed at night! I have also been falling repeatedly of the final moves of the Full Roadside Traverse at the Cromlech - a bit of a long standing mission and at v9 or 8a+ sport grade will be a big tick for me!