Testimonial from Olli

I've just received this email from Olli who I took out for 2 days sport climbing in El Chorro.

I went out for a couple of days instruction with Rory during my stay in El Chorro. Coming from a bouldering background I had experience on rock but had never climbed routes. Within a couple of days Rory taught me the basics of sport climbing and built my confidence level up enough to get me on lead. He was very good at judging my skill level and with his laid back friendly attitude I never felt out of control or pressured. I tapped into his huge wealth of technical knowledge which he was always happy to share clearly and concisely. He also made efforts to introduce me to other climbers and potential partners in the area, which I really appreciated. I would highly recommend Rory to new or seasoned climbers alike.

Winter in Snowdonia

Whilst I'm spending my last few days out in El Chorro (in the rain) Jen has been making the most of the early winter in Snowdonia. She got out at the weekend with some friends and completed the Snowdon Horseshoe. The photos look amazing! Very Jealous. I've have now added a winter skills page to my website so if you want to make the most of the winter check it out and book on a course!


View along a snowy Crib Goch


The Snowdon Horseshoe in winter condition - looks amazing!!!

More El Chorro Photos

Well its a wet day here in El Chorro so heres a few more photos from the past few days.


Thanksgiving dinner at the Olive Branch


A good spread!


View to the cliffs of Frontales and the Poema Roca cave.


Awesome climbing on the Navigador Pillar

Its Snowy back in North Wales

The view from my pad to Moel Elio and snowdon. Taken this evening!

Whilst I'm sat in the rain in El Chorro the weather back home in Snowdonia has turned baltic! Snow is down to 100m and the temperature is set to be well below zero on the tops for the next week. I will be running winter skills courses in Snowdonia so if your keen to get out into the snow and enjoy our winter wonderland check out my winter course page.

Olli's intro to Sport Climbing

On Saturday I took out Olli for his first taste of sport climbing. Being a proficient boulderer already meant that for the morning we focused on the basics of tying in, belaying and seconding. We then progressed on to thinking about the leading process. Olli quickly picked up how to clip the rope into quickdraws and thread the anchors at the top of the climb. In the afternoon I lead up a couple of long routes to give Olli a chance to work on his stamina!


Olli climbing a 5 in Sector Castrojo


Practicing clipping into quickdraws - a vital skill for lead climbing

Gary takes on the Camino del Rey

In 1901 it became obvious that workers at the hydroelectric power plants at Chorro Falls and Gaitanejo Falls needed a walkway to cross between the falls, to provide for transport of materials, and for the inspection and maintenance of the channel. Construction of the walkway took four years and it was finished in 1905.

In 1921 King Alfonso XIII crossed the walkway for the inauguration of the dam Conde del Guadalhorce and it became known by its present name.

The walkway is one meter (3 feet and 3 inches) in width, and rises over 100 meters (350 feet) above the river below. It is currently in a highly deteriorated state and there are numerous sections where part of or the entire concrete top has collapsed away. The result is large open air gaps that are bridged only by narrow steel beams or other support fixtures. Very few of the original handrails exist but a Via ferrata safety-wire runs the length of the path.

More El Chorro Action

Craig climbing Arabesque 7a at Escalera Arabe


The wilds of El Chorro


The view through the gorge - climber on the classic Zepplin


Mel and Garry of the Olive Branch on the Camino del Rey


Garry struggling to come to grips with the exposure on the Camino del Rey

More El Chorro photos

Desplomilandia

View from the crag


Martin Seconding Liron Carete 7c

Its been pretty hot here the past few days so we have been seeking the shade! Yesterday I headed up to Desplomilandia - which is about 20 minutes from the Olive Branch - with Silvia, Martin and a few other guests. This was my first full days climbing since arriving so it was good to get stuck into a few routes. There's lots to go at here from 6a to 8a - and all good quality climbing. I got warmed up then managed to onsight two 7b's, which I was pretty chuffed at, then had a play on a severely overhanging 7c which gave me a good beating! Hopefully I'll get back on it tomorrow and get it done!

El Chorro sunshine!!!

I've been out at the Olive Branch in El Chorro for 3 days of sunshine and climbing. I have been taking some of Silvia clients - The Rock Climbing Company - for an Intro climbing course.

Today I took Mark and John on the Camino del Rey to Los Cotos where we did 3 climbs. We then made the long walk back to the Olive Branch for cold beer and swimming. Awesome day!


Walking to the start of the Camino del Rey


Mark balancing along a tricky section


View back down the El Chorro gorge


Crossing the river en route to Los Cotos


Nice slab climbing at Los Cotos


Finishing the day with a swim and cold beer

Scrambling Adventures

North Gully


Using the rope in Little Gully


Summit shot


View from Tryfan South Ridge

This weekend I was working for the Rock Climbing Company and took brothers Joe and Jamie for an Intro to Scrambling course. The forecast for Saturday was not great so we opted for some low level scrambling around Cwm Idwal. We played around on Gribin Facet and and looked at the use of emergency rope work, scrambling movement and route finding decisions. We braved the hail showers and made our way up the False Gribin Ridge before running away! Definitely a touch of winter in the air.

Sunday dawned clear and crisp and Joe and Jamie made their way, under my guidance, to the start of Little and North Gullies on Tryfan. This is an awesome and challenging grade 1 scramble that takes an improbable line up the east face of Tryfan. The guys climbed it well, resorting to using a rope for one tricky section and we made it to the summit for lunch. A leisurely descent of the South Ridge and Cwm Tryfan took us back to the road. A great day.

A Day at the Roaches

Phil on the delicate slab of Track of the Cat E5


Dave seconding The Swan E3


On my favourite boulder problem - Three Pocket Slab V3

With a good cold and crisp forecast I couldn't resist the lure of the grit so on Friday Phil, Dave and I made the trip to the Roaches on the western edge of the Peak District. The Roaches is my favourite of all the Gritstone crags as it has such variety, great rock, a beautiful outlook over the Cheshire and Staffordshire plain and it was where I first started to climb outdoors as a teenager.

Gritstone is an amazing medium to climb on. For those not use to its subtle nuances (thats me) it can at times feel desperate and frustrating but when it all comes together it gives an amazing climbing experience. The key with gritstone is the friction - its amazingly grippy, especially when its cold. Climbs are often insecure with few positive holds so faith in the friction is paramount - if you don't believe you feet will stick to the rock then they wont!

I climbed the classic Elegy E2, a route which I have aspired to climb since I first visited the crag. It features a run out up a holdless slab at the top of the climb - if you keep you head and keep the faith you will be rewarded with one of gritstone most elegant routes, if you don't then prepare yourself for a 10m cheese grating slide back down then slab! Brilliant

Steep fun at Pigeons Cave

Jim lowering off the stupidly steep Stiff Upper Lip (8a)


Chris Doyle pulling out the drop knee move on Stark (8a)

One of my climbing goals is to climb an 8a sport route so today I had my first proper session on an 8a - Stark at Pigeons Cave on the Great Orme. The most important thing I have learnt during recent sport climbing days is to try as hard as I can and not be worried in the slightest about falling off. This has been tricky for me as coming from a trad climbing background the emphasis has always been not to fall off. It takes awhile to make that progression to being able to crank out hard moves when your pumped and tired knowing full well that you are going to fall off. For me getting my head around that psychological barrier has been a big step forward. I managed some good links on the route and with a few more sessions I think I would have it in the bag. However it is likely to be next year now till I get back on it as I've a busy week of work over half term then its off to Spain. I'll just have to climb 8a out there!

Winter is on its way...

The weather is on the turn in Snowdonia - snow is forecast to fall on the tops over the next couple of days. Up in Scotland it looks like the Cairngorms might receive a good dump of the white stuff... but its not quite time to sharpen the crampons yet, as my Spanish trip is only two weeks off. Training for it is going well despite a lack of skin on my finger tips... I just can't wait to get out of the wall and on to some sun kissed limestone!

I'm also in the process of sorting out a trip to Chamonix in December for some skiing and climbing! Can't wait.

Last week I enjoyed training up Therfield School for their Duke of Edinburgh Gold Award. They spent 4 days hiking over and through the hills of Snowdonia in preparation for their qualifying expedition in the Brecon Beacons next year. It always amazes me to see the determination these young people put into completing the award. Well done team.


View from Capel Curig to the Snowdon Horseshoe taken whilst waiting for my DofE group to reach the checkpoint!

My Office...

The Indian Summer rolls on - got slightly sunburnt today and in a base layer at 600m!!

Diamond Times

What a cracking afternoon at the Diamond - although frustrating for me as my lack of skin meant I did only 4 moves before calling it a day. Its such a nice place to hang out - especially as the late evening sun creeps round and then sets behind the Great Orme. I went down with Jim from V12 Outdoor and we were joined by a good local team.

Jim quickly fired off Never Get Out of the Boat, a tough 8a, on his second attempt and onsighted a 7b. Jon fell of the last move of his new 8a project and Doylo had a good burn on his project 8b?

The Diamond is an awesome spot for hard sport climbing but also a frustrating place to have a hard project. Its tidal and access is by a via ferrata from above 3hrs either side of low tide. Its also a tough place to get good conditions as it is often covered in a tidal grease that can take a long time to dissapear.

Tremadog....

... the climbing on the Dolerite cliffs of Tremadog is some of the best in the world. I spent both my days off this weekend at Tremdog - inspired by a good forecast - sun and northerly winds - and the new Tremadog guide. The climbing is very technical and skills such as route reading and improvisation are very important. On most of the routes it doesn't matter how hard you can pull down or how strong your fingers are as the climbing is very subtle and requires a wide repertoire of techniques - slabs, corners, grooves, aretes, roofs - and often all in the space of one pitch or even sometimes a few moves!

There is also a good range of grades there - especially for those climbing at VS and above - and is a great, friendly environment in which to try your first multipitch climb.

In addition to this there is a cafe there run by the famous Eric Jones (solo north face of the Eiger, base jumping etc), all the routes are fairly quick to access from the road (some less than 2 minutes from the cafe), it gets much better weather than the mountains, the rock is beautiful and the craic is good.

What are you waiting for?

You can buy the new guidebook online or in shop from V12 Outdoors.

Multipitch sea cliff climbing

On Thursday and Friday I was working for the Rock Climbing Company running a multipitch sea cliff climbing course. I was joined by Peter who had previous experience of traditional climbing from many years ago and sport climbs regularly indoors and outdoors. Peter wanted to broaden his horizons, get involved in some trad climbing again and have the confidence to climb in areas where sport climbing doesn't reach - big, gnarly multipitch sea cliffs.

On the first day we headed to Tremdaog to try and beat the weather and get Peter's multipitch systems up and running. We managed to climb Oberon and abseil off before the showers arrived. We then spent a bit of time looking at prusikking up a rope - useful for escaping from sea cliffs - before climbing Merlin in the rain!!

On Friday the weather was looking better so we headed to Anglesey. We spent the morning at Holyhead mountain looking at some self rescue skills, then when the sun came out we abseiled into Castell Helen on Gogarth. We climbed Lighthouse arete - a 3 pitch VS and Rap a tricky 2 pitch VS.

Climbing courses in Spain

As the nights start to draw in and the weather gets wetter (is that possible?) and colder my mind starts to thinks about clipping bolts and climbing with the sun on my back in El Chorro. I'm heading out to stay at the Olive Branch again for November and will be available for guiding and a variety of tailored courses. So if you're new to Sport Climbing and want to know what its all about then give me a shout. The Olive Branch is a very friendly guesthouse situated underneath Las Encantadas - just one of many great sectors in the area. For more information on my courses and El Chorro visist www.snowdoniamountaineering.com/Spanish Sport Climbing Courses.html

Mountain Leader Training

Last week I was instructing on a Mountain Leader Training course based at the Blue Peris Mountain Centre until a sudden attack of the lurg cut my week short. I always enjoys working on these courses and developing the skills and knowledge of potential mountain leaders. The course is for people for have already some experience of looking after themselves in the mountains and are thinking about leading groups in the mountains. Some does this as part of their career in the outdoor industry, some because they volunteer with Scouts or similar and some because they want to learn new but have not intention of leading groups.
After the training candidates can return once they have clocked up enough experience and are confident with their skills for a 5 day assessment. For more information on mountaineering qualifications visit MLTW and MLTUK.
Unfortunately my camera is still in the process of being fixed... come on Sony!