"The most traditional of routes. To gain full satisfaction it is best to do the route by moonlight; the party should be large and of large men (preferably drunk!). "
This is the description of Lockwoods Chimney from the old Tremadog and Cwm Silyn guidebook!! I climbed the route first in my uni days as part of a party of 20 odd, on a grim November night after a few ales in a local pub!
So with a terrible forecast for the day and Dom, Tom and Dunc up for a bit of adventure I decided it was time for another visit. It certainly lived up to its expectations and felt a lot harder than I remembered it being (no alcohol this time though!). Its certainly a tough old battle - especially as it was very wet and slippery. It definitely had the boys eyes out on stalks at times - both from the exposure at the top and the strain of wiggling up the tight chimney!
Saturday, 31 July 2010
Monday, 26 July 2010
The Welsh Monsoon
Well the weather for the past week has not been fantastic - in fact its done the same as it has for the past 4 years. The promise of a nice spring and a beautiful June has given way to the wind and rain of the Welsh monsoon - nicely timed for the start of the school holidays!
Its great weather for those of you wanting to brush up on your navigation skills but not ideal for rock climbing in the mountains!
Thankfully here in North Wales we have a few venues which are pretty reliable when it is wet in the hills. One of these is the Great Orme at Llandudno. I took a trip out there on Friday afternoon and after a quick warm up got stuck into my long term project - a 7c sport route. The photo topo below is taken from the North Wales Limestone Wiki .
2. I've Been a Bad, Bad Boy 7c/7c+ ***
Mark Pretty, 19.8.1988.
I've got the first half up to the traverse pretty well dialed in now I just need to get fitter and stronger and work out the most efficient way of doing the traverse section - lots of hard work needed!
On Saturday I was working for Seren Ventures and took Peter Feller and his team over the Glyders on a wet, foggy and windy day. They were doing some last minute training for Kilimanjaro which they hope to climb in a couple of weeks time - good luck! The views from the top of the Glyders are awesome and should look like this,
unfortunately we couldn't see for more than 20m in front of our faces for most of the day. We definitely earned our cream teas from the Pen y Gwryd Hotel that evening!
Its great weather for those of you wanting to brush up on your navigation skills but not ideal for rock climbing in the mountains!
Thankfully here in North Wales we have a few venues which are pretty reliable when it is wet in the hills. One of these is the Great Orme at Llandudno. I took a trip out there on Friday afternoon and after a quick warm up got stuck into my long term project - a 7c sport route. The photo topo below is taken from the North Wales Limestone Wiki .
2. I've Been a Bad, Bad Boy 7c/7c+ ***
Mark Pretty, 19.8.1988.
I've got the first half up to the traverse pretty well dialed in now I just need to get fitter and stronger and work out the most efficient way of doing the traverse section - lots of hard work needed!
On Saturday I was working for Seren Ventures and took Peter Feller and his team over the Glyders on a wet, foggy and windy day. They were doing some last minute training for Kilimanjaro which they hope to climb in a couple of weeks time - good luck! The views from the top of the Glyders are awesome and should look like this,
unfortunately we couldn't see for more than 20m in front of our faces for most of the day. We definitely earned our cream teas from the Pen y Gwryd Hotel that evening!
Friday, 23 July 2010
Top Ten Mountaineering Moments
On top of Pt. Lenana, Mt Kenya
With all the bad weather we have been having in Snowdonia over the past few weeks I have been spending quite a bit of time indoors on my computer. So I have been doing some virtual climbing - I have put together a list of my top ten mountaineering moments from the past 5 or so years. Check it out by following the link below to my website - maybe it can provide you with some inspiration on a rainy day!
Top Ten Mountaineering Moments
The sun is actually shining this morning so it time to shut my laptop down and head to the Great Orme for some climbing!
Saturday, 10 July 2010
Peak Limestone
On Thursday I had a spontaneous trip over to the Peak District to meet up with friends Jim and Choo for some steep limestone sport climbing. We headed down into the depths of Chee Dale to climb on the Cornice - a crag that has not been dry for 3 years! I've not been sport climbing much this summer as the mountain crags have been dry and felt pretty unfit for this style of climbing. Never the less I had 2 great days on this beautiful crag and managed to drag myself up a couple of routes!
A change of scene - The Brecon Beacons
Last week I swapped Snowdonia for the Brecon Beacons to work with Therfield School and their Duke of Edinburgh Gold Expedition. I have worked with this school and teacher/friend Helen for the past couple of years. Its great to work with young people for a change and help them to achieve their goals.
View from the Black Mountains
We had 5 great days and apart from a blip on Sunday, fantastic weather. For the expedition the teams have to plan and complete a 4 day expedition across wild terrain, remaining totally self sufficient. Most teams will end up walking around 80km - a fair way considering the weight of their packs! All our teams did exceptionally well and completed the challenge - so well done to you all!
View from the Black Mountains
We had 5 great days and apart from a blip on Sunday, fantastic weather. For the expedition the teams have to plan and complete a 4 day expedition across wild terrain, remaining totally self sufficient. Most teams will end up walking around 80km - a fair way considering the weight of their packs! All our teams did exceptionally well and completed the challenge - so well done to you all!
Sunday, 27 June 2010
What a weekend of climbing
I've been making the most of the fantastic weather, packing lots of climbing before the rain arrives next week. On Friday after work I climbed with Lou on Dinas Mot and we fired up the classic Plexus E1 and the odly named Hornets attack Victor Mature E2. Two great routes on amazing rock.
Yesterday I met up with 'Strong' John and paid a visited to Clogwyn Gafr in the Llanberis pass. This is a great little crag with excellent rock with a good selection of extreme routes. This was my first visit and I love the fact that I have been climbing in the Llanberis pass for 8 years and there are still area for me to explore. I climbed Diapsan E1 and Pulsar E3 whilst John managed 2 E5s - Outspan and Nectarine Run.
Today I climbed what could well be the best E2 in North Wales. John and I made the long trek up to Craig yr Ysfa on the side of Carnedd Llywelyn. It was well worth it and I climbed Aura - one of the best routes in North Wales - and Pinnaclisma. A great mountain day out.
Yesterday I met up with 'Strong' John and paid a visited to Clogwyn Gafr in the Llanberis pass. This is a great little crag with excellent rock with a good selection of extreme routes. This was my first visit and I love the fact that I have been climbing in the Llanberis pass for 8 years and there are still area for me to explore. I climbed Diapsan E1 and Pulsar E3 whilst John managed 2 E5s - Outspan and Nectarine Run.
Today I climbed what could well be the best E2 in North Wales. John and I made the long trek up to Craig yr Ysfa on the side of Carnedd Llywelyn. It was well worth it and I climbed Aura - one of the best routes in North Wales - and Pinnaclisma. A great mountain day out.
MoD Mountain Walking Week
Last week I spent 5 days with students of Wellbeck MoD college taking a group of students out into the hills and introducing them to the hills of Snowdonia. It was a week of fantastic weather and the week culminated in a wild camp at Cwm Glas, below Grib Goch. Unfortunately I cant show photos from the week for security reasons. Need to know basis....
Sunday, 20 June 2010
Snowdonia's 15 Peaks
There are 15 peaks over 3000ft in Snowdonia and it has always been a challenge to ascend them all. Traditionally this has been a one day challenge... but unless you are an experienced hill walker, very fit and slightly masochistic, most people will get far more enjoyment in ticking them over a slightly longer period of time.
For the past three day I have been guiding Leanne and Steve in their mission to summit all of the 15. Doing it over three days is still a good challenge and gives three amazing, long days out in the mountains.
On the first day we conquered the Carneddau - we were even graced with a partial cloud inversion in the morning which turned into hill fog later. 7 of the 15 are ticked on the first day - Pen yr Ole Wen, Carnedd Dafydd, Yr Elen, Carnedd Llywelyn, Foel Grach, Carnedd Gwenllian (formerly Carnedd Uchaf) and Foel Fras.
Cloud inversion in the Ogwen Valley
The next day took us into the Glyderau, which many find to be the toughest section with some long ascents and descents on scree and a scrambly ascent of tryfan to finish the day off. 5 more are ticked on the second day - Elidir Fawr, Y Garn, Glyder Fawr, Glyder Fach and Tryfan.
Fine weather on the Glyder Plateau - Castell y Gwynt and a view to Snowdon
The last day on Snowdon is the shortest but also involves an ascent of Crib Goch. This is a very exposed grade one scramble with some exciting positions. Just 3 on the last day - Crib Goch, Carnedd Ugain and Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon).
Steve Scrambling up the East ridge of Crib Goch
For the past three day I have been guiding Leanne and Steve in their mission to summit all of the 15. Doing it over three days is still a good challenge and gives three amazing, long days out in the mountains.
On the first day we conquered the Carneddau - we were even graced with a partial cloud inversion in the morning which turned into hill fog later. 7 of the 15 are ticked on the first day - Pen yr Ole Wen, Carnedd Dafydd, Yr Elen, Carnedd Llywelyn, Foel Grach, Carnedd Gwenllian (formerly Carnedd Uchaf) and Foel Fras.
Cloud inversion in the Ogwen Valley
The next day took us into the Glyderau, which many find to be the toughest section with some long ascents and descents on scree and a scrambly ascent of tryfan to finish the day off. 5 more are ticked on the second day - Elidir Fawr, Y Garn, Glyder Fawr, Glyder Fach and Tryfan.
Fine weather on the Glyder Plateau - Castell y Gwynt and a view to Snowdon
The last day on Snowdon is the shortest but also involves an ascent of Crib Goch. This is a very exposed grade one scramble with some exciting positions. Just 3 on the last day - Crib Goch, Carnedd Ugain and Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon).
Steve Scrambling up the East ridge of Crib Goch
Thursday, 17 June 2010
Too busy climbing to be blogging...
Awesome weather, all the crags are bone dry, its warm and sunny and its set to continue!!! Bring it on! Doing the welsh 15 peaks over the next 3 days - lets hope we don't pass out from heat exhaustion. Here a few pics to show a bit of action from the past week.
Rory hanging out on the Bluebottle traverse, Gogarth
The guidebook description for Lubyanka
Choo on the exposed top pitch of Lubyanka
The top of Cyrn Las with Crib Goch and the Parsons Nose in the background
Rory hanging out on the Bluebottle traverse, Gogarth
The guidebook description for Lubyanka
Choo on the exposed top pitch of Lubyanka
The top of Cyrn Las with Crib Goch and the Parsons Nose in the background
Friday, 11 June 2010
Tremadog Sunshine
After recovering from my sailing adventures I have spent the past two days climbing climbing in the Tremadog area. With a NW wind the mountains have been a bit clagged in but down south in the 'rain shadow' the Tremadog cliffs have been basking in the sunshine. Yesterday I climbed with Jim at Craig Bwlch y Moch and we started on the classic E4 Cream which takes an awesome line up the Vector Buttress, culminating in a super exposed pitch up the headwall.
A photo stolen from the internet of the top pitch of Cream
We then abbed back down and I attempted the last pitch of Void - also E4 - but I found it considerably harder and bailed off it at the crux and let Jim finish it off. I love the climbing at Tremdog - its one of those places where climbing ability and technical performance is more important that just being fit and strong. The climbing is always so involved and the rock is just a joy to climb on.
Unknown climber on the classic Cristmas Curry
With slightly tired arms we headed round to Neb - which has a delightful first pitch of about E1. The real meat of the route is provided by the direct finish which is a bit of a sandbag at E3 and a nemesis of mine and Jim's. It was not to be and after a few tries we bailed of the original finish and headed home via a cold pint in Beddgelert
Jen treadind carelfully on the crux of Hardd
Today I me and Jen climbed at Carreg Hylldrem - a ridiculously overhanging crag with some fierce routes. We climbed and really enjoyed the classic Hardd but we were disappointed that the overhanging nature of the crag meant we didn't get any sun so we decided to have a picnic in the sun rather than climbing another route!
The veiw from the top to Cnict and the Moelwynns
A photo stolen from the internet of the top pitch of Cream
We then abbed back down and I attempted the last pitch of Void - also E4 - but I found it considerably harder and bailed off it at the crux and let Jim finish it off. I love the climbing at Tremdog - its one of those places where climbing ability and technical performance is more important that just being fit and strong. The climbing is always so involved and the rock is just a joy to climb on.
Unknown climber on the classic Cristmas Curry
With slightly tired arms we headed round to Neb - which has a delightful first pitch of about E1. The real meat of the route is provided by the direct finish which is a bit of a sandbag at E3 and a nemesis of mine and Jim's. It was not to be and after a few tries we bailed of the original finish and headed home via a cold pint in Beddgelert
Jen treadind carelfully on the crux of Hardd
Today I me and Jen climbed at Carreg Hylldrem - a ridiculously overhanging crag with some fierce routes. We climbed and really enjoyed the classic Hardd but we were disappointed that the overhanging nature of the crag meant we didn't get any sun so we decided to have a picnic in the sun rather than climbing another route!
The veiw from the top to Cnict and the Moelwynns
Tuesday, 8 June 2010
Sailing Adventures
I got an email from my cousin James last Sunday entitled Urgent:Sailing. On opening it I discovered he needed a hand in sailing his yacht (a hunter Sonata) from Beaumaris to somewhere on the West coast of Scotland so how could I say no. Now my sailing experience is limited to a couple of hours on a lake in a topper and reading Swallows and Amazons when I was younger. I didn't really know what to expect.
Gi Gi at anchor in the Menai Straights
So when we set off from Beaumaris at 4am I thought we would have a nice sunny sail up the Irish Sea and arrive at the Isle of Man in time for a hearty fish pie and a pint of ale. All was going swimming for a few hours - sunny, calm sea, light winds - when James showed me our position on the chart and I realised just how far we had to go and how we desperately needed some more wind. After a close encounter with an oil tanker we decided to crank on the small outboard for a few hours. Unfortunately our slow progress meant that we missed the tide to get round the bottom of the Isle of man and had to battle against 3 knots... which considering the lack of the wind was a big problem. With darkness falling and little progress we started to worry that we wouldn't make it. We were thankfully saved by a warm breeze off the land which allowed us to speed up to 6 knots and we managed to find our way blindly into Port Erin well after 11pm!
Heading to Puffin Island and the Irish Sea
After a lie in and a trip to land for breakfast we sorted the boat and headed up the coast to Peel. Our jumping off point for Scotland. This was more my idea of fun - a steady wind and more importantly in to harbour for a pint and a curry at a reasonable time!
Skipper James
An early start the next morning found us once again in light winds combined with thick fog. We were also not receiving any calls on the VHF - so no forecasts, warnings etc. Thankfully the wind picked up and as we passed the Mull of Galloway the fog cleared but again we had missed the favourable tide so a long battle ensued to get to Port Patrick. We rewarded ourselves with Guinness and sea bass while struggling slightly with the now swaying land!
A slightly more impressive ship!
The last leg of our tip was round to Stranraer - only 7 miles by road but nearly 20 by sea! Finally we had a good NW wind and a favourable tide. These however combined to give a pretty big swell and we had 5 hours of hard tacking to get round into Loch Ryan. We had a minor emergency on the way when we almost lost our rudder to the sea as a nut had worked loose. Thankfully a bit of quick thinking from James allowed us to jury rig it with a ' g' clamp and saved us from being blown on to the rocky cliffs!
It was a great adventure... not sure I'll be rushing to get back on a boat unless it involves a short but vigorous sail followed by a cold beer!
Gi Gi at anchor in the Menai Straights
So when we set off from Beaumaris at 4am I thought we would have a nice sunny sail up the Irish Sea and arrive at the Isle of Man in time for a hearty fish pie and a pint of ale. All was going swimming for a few hours - sunny, calm sea, light winds - when James showed me our position on the chart and I realised just how far we had to go and how we desperately needed some more wind. After a close encounter with an oil tanker we decided to crank on the small outboard for a few hours. Unfortunately our slow progress meant that we missed the tide to get round the bottom of the Isle of man and had to battle against 3 knots... which considering the lack of the wind was a big problem. With darkness falling and little progress we started to worry that we wouldn't make it. We were thankfully saved by a warm breeze off the land which allowed us to speed up to 6 knots and we managed to find our way blindly into Port Erin well after 11pm!
Heading to Puffin Island and the Irish Sea
After a lie in and a trip to land for breakfast we sorted the boat and headed up the coast to Peel. Our jumping off point for Scotland. This was more my idea of fun - a steady wind and more importantly in to harbour for a pint and a curry at a reasonable time!
Skipper James
An early start the next morning found us once again in light winds combined with thick fog. We were also not receiving any calls on the VHF - so no forecasts, warnings etc. Thankfully the wind picked up and as we passed the Mull of Galloway the fog cleared but again we had missed the favourable tide so a long battle ensued to get to Port Patrick. We rewarded ourselves with Guinness and sea bass while struggling slightly with the now swaying land!
A slightly more impressive ship!
The last leg of our tip was round to Stranraer - only 7 miles by road but nearly 20 by sea! Finally we had a good NW wind and a favourable tide. These however combined to give a pretty big swell and we had 5 hours of hard tacking to get round into Loch Ryan. We had a minor emergency on the way when we almost lost our rudder to the sea as a nut had worked loose. Thankfully a bit of quick thinking from James allowed us to jury rig it with a ' g' clamp and saved us from being blown on to the rocky cliffs!
It was a great adventure... not sure I'll be rushing to get back on a boat unless it involves a short but vigorous sail followed by a cold beer!
Saturday, 29 May 2010
After work Pass action
On Tuesday evening I headed up to Dinas Bach in the Llanberis crag with friends choo and Jim. I had never visited this crag before and it is one of the quieter crags in the area - it is however fantastic. It has good set of routes at all grades, including a short E5 called Felony, which was our objective for the evening. I won the game of rock, paper, scissors so I quested up first for the onsight attempt, put the gear in and fell off the crux. After Choo had made a successfully ascent and Jim had fallen off I got back on it and climbed the route second go.
Attempting Prison Break
Our eyes were however drawn to a line to the left which according to the guidebook was waiting a first ascent. We had a few plays on it and with darkness approaching and Choo taking a couple of 25 foot falls we decided to return for a re-match on Thursday. Unfortunately I only managed one attempt, which resulted in airborne retreat before rain stopped play. Jim and Choo then managed to get it done last night whilst I was camping in the Moelwyns and named it Prison Break E6 6b - a fine addition to hard climbing in the Llanberis pass. Effort lads!!!
Attempting Prison Break
Our eyes were however drawn to a line to the left which according to the guidebook was waiting a first ascent. We had a few plays on it and with darkness approaching and Choo taking a couple of 25 foot falls we decided to return for a re-match on Thursday. Unfortunately I only managed one attempt, which resulted in airborne retreat before rain stopped play. Jim and Choo then managed to get it done last night whilst I was camping in the Moelwyns and named it Prison Break E6 6b - a fine addition to hard climbing in the Llanberis pass. Effort lads!!!
Learn to Lead Course
On Tuesday and Wednesday I ran a learn to lead course for my good friend Sylvia of The Rock Climbing Company. Lucy and Matt were on there honeymoon and keen to transfer there indoor leading skills to the crags of North Wales. On Tuesday we visited the upper Tier of Tremadog and topped up our tans whilst looking at seconding routes, using a guidebook, placing natural gear, setting up top and bottom ropes and looked at movement skills on rock.
The nest day we headed back to Tremadog and we climbed Rio in 2 pitches to give Matt and Lucy their first multipitch climb. In the afternoon it was time for them to get on the sharp end of the rope and they climbed Boo Boo with me providing guidance and advice from an abseil rope next to them. Its always a buzz seeing someone complete their first lead climb and it always makes me think of my own first leading experiences many years ago... Well done team!
Lucy leading the first pitch of Boo Boo
On the belay ledge
Matt spotting a gear placement on the second pitch
The nest day we headed back to Tremadog and we climbed Rio in 2 pitches to give Matt and Lucy their first multipitch climb. In the afternoon it was time for them to get on the sharp end of the rope and they climbed Boo Boo with me providing guidance and advice from an abseil rope next to them. Its always a buzz seeing someone complete their first lead climb and it always makes me think of my own first leading experiences many years ago... Well done team!
Lucy leading the first pitch of Boo Boo
On the belay ledge
Matt spotting a gear placement on the second pitch
Devon And Cornwall Holiday
Last week Jen and I headed down to the west country for a bit of a mini road trip. We had plans to hit the Granite and Killas sea crags of West Penwith before heading up the North Coast for some big adventures. The weather at the start of the week was cold but we managed to get some good routes done at Sennen, Chair Ladder, Bosigran and Carn Kenidjack - including a very fine E2 called Bishops Rib. Its great to sample a different climbing area and different rock. The granite on many of the West Penwith crags is immaculate and a real joy to climb on - where technique and confidence are more important than being strong!
Jen showing off on Saxon at Carn Kenidjack
The weather then turned bad so we headed to the drier climes of Jen's parents in Exeter before heading up to the Culm coast. The sea cliffs here are generally pretty bad ass, loose, dangerous and commiting.
The Culm Coast
But there are some exceptions. We climbed a fine little traverse called The Wine Dark Sea at Damehole Point which I would recommend and had a couple of sessions at Lower Sharpnose Point between beach and ice cream action!
Damehole Point
Scrambling to the start of The Wine Dark Sea
Jen on Pitch 2
Jen showing off on Saxon at Carn Kenidjack
The weather then turned bad so we headed to the drier climes of Jen's parents in Exeter before heading up to the Culm coast. The sea cliffs here are generally pretty bad ass, loose, dangerous and commiting.
The Culm Coast
But there are some exceptions. We climbed a fine little traverse called The Wine Dark Sea at Damehole Point which I would recommend and had a couple of sessions at Lower Sharpnose Point between beach and ice cream action!
Damehole Point
Scrambling to the start of The Wine Dark Sea
Jen on Pitch 2
Tuesday, 11 May 2010
Evening Slate
Just back from a quick hit with Jen and Lou to the slate to find out we have a new Prime Minister! What a beautiful evening - though it is chilly in the wind still. Jen and Lou climbed a nice 6a slab while I took a few photos.
Lou and Jen walking into the quarries with Crib Goch in the Background
Jen loving some slab action
Lou and Jen walking into the quarries with Crib Goch in the Background
Jen loving some slab action
Sunday, 9 May 2010
Scrambling and more Scrambling
Just finished up four days of fantastic scrambling for Seren Ventures, sat at home having a cold beer and listening to Andrew Marr talk about politics! On Thursday and Friday I took out Mike and Ben, a Father Son combo that I introduced to roped scrambling last year. They had not manged to get out on the hills much since last year so we decided on tackling Bristly Ridge - a tricky grade 1 - a route they have always wanted to do but have not yet had the confidence to try by themselves. We ascended in the swirling mist which made for an atmospheric scramble and provided a good test of Mike and Ben's route finding skills. On the way we looked at the different ways a rope can be used to safeguard short tricky steps. We descended by the Gribin Ridge - a short grade 1 - and had a go at abseiling with out the use of a harness or belay plate - the South African Abseil.
Bristly Ridge and the Glyders from Tryfan
On Friday we did a grade 3 on Tryfan Bach in the morning and a grade 3 on the Milestone Buttress in the Afternoon where we focused on building belays. belaying from above and below and movement over harder ground. It was fantastic to see Mike and Ben again and they will be back for more action in the summer.
Shayne on the tricky start of Nor' Nor' Buttress
For the past 2 days I have been out with Shayne of Nantwich, scrambling all over the Glyders. Saturday saw us taking on the challenge of Seniors Ridge Direct Start and then the ultra classic grade 3, Cneifion Arete. Thankfully the forecast 60 mph winds did not appear, which we were thankful for given the exposed nature of the terrain! Today Shayne fulfilled an ambition to climb Tryfan. I don't think he thought his first ascent of this peak would have been by a grade 3 scramble on its East face. We had an amazing day under bright sunshine and light winds and enjoyed the challenge of Nor' Nor' Buttress. I was continually impressed with Shayne's ability to deal with tricky and exposed ground on only his second day of hard scrambling.
Shayne, Adam and Eve. Tryfan summit.
Bristly Ridge and the Glyders from Tryfan
On Friday we did a grade 3 on Tryfan Bach in the morning and a grade 3 on the Milestone Buttress in the Afternoon where we focused on building belays. belaying from above and below and movement over harder ground. It was fantastic to see Mike and Ben again and they will be back for more action in the summer.
Shayne on the tricky start of Nor' Nor' Buttress
For the past 2 days I have been out with Shayne of Nantwich, scrambling all over the Glyders. Saturday saw us taking on the challenge of Seniors Ridge Direct Start and then the ultra classic grade 3, Cneifion Arete. Thankfully the forecast 60 mph winds did not appear, which we were thankful for given the exposed nature of the terrain! Today Shayne fulfilled an ambition to climb Tryfan. I don't think he thought his first ascent of this peak would have been by a grade 3 scramble on its East face. We had an amazing day under bright sunshine and light winds and enjoyed the challenge of Nor' Nor' Buttress. I was continually impressed with Shayne's ability to deal with tricky and exposed ground on only his second day of hard scrambling.
Shayne, Adam and Eve. Tryfan summit.
Tuesday, 4 May 2010
Gogarth Main Cliff
Seconding pitch 2 of The Assassin
After a very bust few weeks I've had a couple of days off. Yesterday I had a fine day in the slate quarries with Bryn, managing to make the most out of the sun by sheltering from the cold north wind. Today Gaz and I ventured down to the Main Cliff of Gogarth - one of my favourite places to hang out. Again it was slightly chilly in the wind but we managed to enjoy 2 great E3's - The Assassin and Hyena. Off to Clwyd limestone tomorrow with Jim for some sport climbing action.
Monday, 26 April 2010
Carneddau Solitude
I had a great day out in the Northern Carneddau on Saturday with my most special client - my Mum! The weather was beautiful and it was warm enough for us to be in t shirts for most of the day. We parked up at the top car park, above the Aber Falls car park and walked up on to Drum and Foel Fras - we probably saw only 3 or 4 people before lunch! We then descended via Garnedd Uchaf and Drosgl before heading back down to Aber Falls - a great circuit especially if you want a bit of peace and quiet. Unfortunately I left my camera somewhere up in the hills - so no photos until I sort out getting a replacement!
On Friday I managed to complete a long standing boulder problem project on the Cromlech boulders. I finally managed to link the last 2 moves of the Full Roadside Traverse to get the V9 or Fr8a tick.
On Friday I managed to complete a long standing boulder problem project on the Cromlech boulders. I finally managed to link the last 2 moves of the Full Roadside Traverse to get the V9 or Fr8a tick.
Monday, 19 April 2010
Busy working, busy playing....
... although sometimes its hard to separate! The awesome dry and sunny weather rolls on and I've had an awesome few days. I've been guiding scrambles over Tryfan, the Glyders and Crib Goch, had a great day ticking a load of classic HVS and E1s at Tremadog, bouldering in the Llanberis pass in the evenings so I'm having a bit of a day off today as I'm starting to ache and I need to grow some more skin on my fingers! Unfortunately I cant post any photos as my camera is in a friends rucsac!
For those of you looking to come up to Snowdonia to climb on our fantastic mountain crags now is the time - even Cloggy is dry (if still a bit chilly) and the forecast looks good for the next few days. I've got a couple of days of work then I'm headed down to Pembroke with a friend for some climbing on the amazing limestone sea cliffs found there.
For those of you looking to come up to Snowdonia to climb on our fantastic mountain crags now is the time - even Cloggy is dry (if still a bit chilly) and the forecast looks good for the next few days. I've got a couple of days of work then I'm headed down to Pembroke with a friend for some climbing on the amazing limestone sea cliffs found there.
Thursday, 15 April 2010
Sunny Spring Continues
Just back from a quick hit in the slate quarries. Oli and I climbed Zzzooming the Tube - an E3 left of the classic HVS looning the tube. I've not climbed much on slate recently and so it felt pretty unnatural to be standing on tiny edges again!
On Monday and Tuesday I was working for my friend Bryn of Dragon Mountain Skills. I had two awesome days out in the sun with Daniel and Katie who were on their honeymoon! On the first day we scrambled up the Gribin Ridge onto Glyder Fawr - their first grade 1 scramble. Tuesday saw us wandering through the Moelwynns and concentrating on navigation skills.
Topping out on the Gribin Ridge
The weather is set fair for awhile (maybe a blip on Sunday) so get down to Snowdonia and enjoy the hills and some warm, dry rock before the monsoon hits!
On Monday and Tuesday I was working for my friend Bryn of Dragon Mountain Skills. I had two awesome days out in the sun with Daniel and Katie who were on their honeymoon! On the first day we scrambled up the Gribin Ridge onto Glyder Fawr - their first grade 1 scramble. Tuesday saw us wandering through the Moelwynns and concentrating on navigation skills.
Topping out on the Gribin Ridge
The weather is set fair for awhile (maybe a blip on Sunday) so get down to Snowdonia and enjoy the hills and some warm, dry rock before the monsoon hits!
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